Nabeel’s Café & Market—Traditional Greek-Italian

It’s easy write reviews of restaurants such as Nabeel’s.   For more than 20 years, the Krontiras family has delivered outstandingly authentic examples of the food of their respective homelands, Greece and Italy.  Today at lunch I was reminded once again why I keep coming back to this fixture on Oxmoor Road in Homewood, Alabama, just south of Birmingham.

When I visit Nabeel’s, I must confess I tend to focus on their classic Greek dishes.  In the nearly 14 years I have dined there, the quality and taste of the dishes has never varied.  My favorite appetizer is a Greek feta wrapped in foil and baked with EVOO, garlic and oregano called Feta Theologos.  It is served with the foil twisted in the shape of a swan but the flavor on the inside is even prettier!

For an entrée, I love the Moussaka served with a Greek salad and slice of yeasty white bread made from scratch.  The meat of this dish is spiced with mint, cinnamon, and allspice—an admittedly freaky combination for a savory meat dish if you have never eaten Mediterranean food before.  But the spices in this example are balanced and so subtle I don’t even think a newbie would be offended.  The bechamel top layer is perfectly proportioned and fluffy giving the overall dish a creamy flavor and delicate texture. 

The only component of the dish that always surprises me is the cold tomato sauce on the plate surrounding the cassarole.  I’m not talking room temperature, here.  I’m talking right out of the refrigerator and onto the place.  But the sauce is delicious and, if used strategically, can take each bite of Moussaka from molten to palatable by the time your fork reaches your mouth.

Nor is the ubiquitous tag-along salad a throw-away.  Today, the last day of March, I was surprised by the garden-ripe flavor and smooth, slightly firm texture of the included tomatoes.  Where did they get such tomatoes in Northern Alabama at this time of year?!  And frankly, who cares?  Tomato snob that I am, I gobbled ’em up along with the rich feta, Kalamata olive, cucumber, and dried mint and red wine vinegar dressed lettuce.

I even adore the fact that iced tea here is not some tropical-fruity-flavored nonsense (gag me!), but is laced with mint.  Mint.  I love that in tea or even as tea.  And their wine selection is pretty darn good too.

This meal is just one representative of the fabulousness of everything I’ve ever eaten here.  The décor isn’t fancy, but it is warm and charming.  And after dinner, make a point of strolling through the market next door to find everything from dried meats to Jordan almonds.   You won’t regret it!

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Dornenberg, Andrew and Karen Page, “The Flavor Bible”

The Flavor Bible: The Essential Guide to Culinary Creativity, Based on the Wisdom of America’s Most Imaginative Chefs is not really a cookbook in the traditional sense of recipes-divided-into-chapters-by-type-of-food-and-indexed-by-ingredients.  What it is is an amazing resource! 

You’ve got watermelon?  Wanna know what other ingredients love watermelon?  Then this is the book for you.

Once when I was making Julia Child’s Steam Roast Duck, I had rendered duck fat.  THE BOOK suggested cauliflower, garlic, and dill were good friends.  I sauteed the garlic and cauliflower in the duck fat and topped with dill at the end.  Magic!

Or that seedless watermelon I mentioned earlier. Guess what? Feta, mint, and mint-infused balsamic vinegar.  Sounds crazy.  Tastes awesome.

Point is, THE BOOK will set you free from what is written and will help you go your own way, without going too far out of bounds, by giving you a clue about time-tested taste combinations you might not otherwise consider.

Give The Flavor Bible a spot in your cookbook collection.  You won’t regret it.

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Ask Not For Whom the Bell Tolls—It tolls for Avo/Dram and Flip Burger and, if you aren’t careful, for Thee

I recently had a disheartening experience at one of my top favorite restaurants in Birmingham, Avo & Dram. At first glance, Dram and its more sophisticated counterpart upstairs, Avo, are two completely different restaurants each with their own menu and décor. Dram is heavily beamed and filled with dark leather appointments and Avo is bright, white and modern, but with the same ownership and the presentation of menus from both restaurants in each, any distinction basically amounts to which dining room you feel like sitting in.

Back in the day about three years ago, Avo’s California, slow food fusion and Dram’s farm-fresh, sophisticated pub fare were lovely additions to the local restaurant scene. Innovative combinations were described on a seasonal menu that often named the nearby source of key ingredients. And the food lived up to its billing.

Lovingly prepared braises, game selections, duck fat twice-fried potatoes, and Cornish Pasty were just a few of the delights at Dram. While Avo’s nouvelle approach to classics like fish tacos, cioppino, and crab cakes was a revelation. More than once did I leave inspired to attempt to replicate a dish I had eaten there (emphasize “attempt”).

Then came the first sign of trouble—Internet specials offered randomly on Facebook. Hoping it was just a sign of the times, it crossed my mind that should those specials become a standard offering, the restaurant(s) might have a revolt if ever they tried to pull back on the discounts.

Next came a slight renovation of Avo, first, adding a few warm touches and, ultimately, a TV lounge at the end of the room. (Admittedly, the formerly unrelentingly stark, bright dining room did remind me a bit of a school cafeteria. So this change wasn’t a total disappointment.)

After that, however, the menu was given a bit of a renovation. The inside-out burger was dropped, as was the parsnip puree and some references to specific food sources.

Finally was the coup de grâce late last week. Where were the duck fat fries? Not on the menu, that was for sure!

No, the waitress assured us, the run-of-the-mill shoe string fries were even better. These imposter potatoes had a splash of truffle oil and grated parmesan, after all. *Grin; knowing lean.*

Big deal, I said. (I’d had those once before, so I knew about what I spoke.) Where were my tender middle and crisp hand cut edges? *Crickets*

I wanted to cry. But I ordered the chicken and dumplings instead.

Meanwhile, my husband was having disappointment of his own—an astonishing inability to order beef or bison steaks, or lamb even though still listed on the menu. The waitress offered him a remaining and still delicious (she assured us) leftover breakfast for dinner pork chop from the special the day before.

Appetizing as that sounded, he ordered a hamburger.

The news grew still worse, however. My entrée reminded me more of egg drop soup than a hearty stew. For a price in the teens, I certainly expected more than two meager bits of meat among vast quantities of flopping dumplings. I’ve eaten better at the Cracker Barrel! I was so distressed, I can’t even remember what he thought of his burger.

On the way home, we struggled to find an answer and arrived at this—some organizations shouldn’t be in the restaurant business—namely, any person or group who seeks a business with unlimited upside potential. That’s because it can’t happen. It just stands to reason at some point profitability in a restaurant will stabilize. Or WILL it? asks Harvard-Business-School-types with palates of shoe leather.

As a result, of the restaurants which start well, like the one’s discussed here, many will capitulate and start to cheap out on ingredients. It’s the restaurant equivalent of the “bait and switch.”

These establishments set high expectations of quality and consistency, give established “foodie havens” a run for their money while developing a favorable reputation. But at some point they max out the number of seatings they can reasonably serve, the number of seats filled at each of seating and, finally, the number of dishes each of those seats is capable of eating. That’s when the corporate types take off the aprons and strap on their calculators.

There are, they know, two ways to increase profits: increasing revenue over fixed costs or reducing costs while maintaining revenue. So if revenue has settled into a predictable pattern but one must demonstrate sustained growth to shareholders, silent partners, or other investors, or in order to unload the pile of bricks to an organization similarly burdened—ruthless cost-cutting (read: quality-cutting) is the only answer!

First, the corporate types lose the expensive chef with all the hang-ups about freshness and crap like that. They replace him or her with a chef who will work for less and who is more “bottom-line” oriented. Why use duck fat when most people don’t know it from peanut oil? Why use local, farm-raised pork when you can sell the same stuff they get at chain restaurants for a fraction of the cost?

If a few people fade away, we’ll just give the ones who stay happy hours and nickel beer nights. Drunk people will eat anything and plenty of it!

By the time the majority of the diners fade away, the brilliant young exec who implemented this scheme will be off ruining another perfectly wonderful restaurant, and the new ownership will be holding the bag. But hey, the balance sheet looks amazing!

Fans of Flip Burger may have noticed a similar trend there and for the same reasons. It started out with a fabulous take on the traditional burgers, fries, and shakes coming off of its founder’s “Next Top Chef” runner-up buzz. Next thing you know—organic, grass-fed beef is M.I.A., followed by A5 Wagyu Beef, followed by me.

And next door, Chuy’s Mexican Cantina, started out serving junk. I ate there precisely once. The only things served to me that day that had any flavor at all were the free salsa and the margarita. How odd it was to dine on “authentic Austin Tex-Mex” (which I’ve actually eaten in Austin) but find in Birmingham it tastes like absolutely nothing. Truly, the so-called food was all texture while miraculously avoiding any flavor at all. As the original garners such rave reviews, I can only assume something was lost in the translation from local joint to sprawling chain.

It’s always sad to say goodbye to a friend. But the next time I have a few bucks burning a hole in my pocket and a yen for something wonderful, you can bet I’ll be heading for the most consistently-fabulous, locally-owned place I can find rather than suffer through any of the above.

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Ditch Your Microwave (and Rediscover Flavor)

Microwaves are useful for many things, such as, eradicating mold from kitchen sponges, and according to Wikipedia, communication, radar, radio astronomy, navigation, power, and spectroscopy. Maybe we should rethink, however, application of this technology to the heating or (God forbid) the cooking of food.

When my husband first suggested we ditch the microwave for health reasons, I’m sure I looked at him like he’d grown a second head. Why the very idea was preposterous! How would we melt butter, boil water, reheat leftovers, melt chocolate, or any of the millions of other things we’d come to rely on this device to do?

He pointed out that humans did just fine without microwave ovens until around 40 years ago. I pointed out that I didn’t have all day to get the above listed tasks done and microwaving was so very quick.

But he got me thinking—how DID we get along before microwaves? And when Emeril Lagasse suggested to my slack-jawed amazement he’d never used one, was it only because his army of kitchen minions picked up the slack?
So I agreed to embark on an quest to see whether we could rid ourselves of this appliance so ubiquitous in kitchens, dorm rooms, and Quickie Marts across this great nation. But like any good experiment, we needed some specialized equipment. In this case, we decided we needed a really quick boiling kettle and a countertop convection/toaster oven. A trip to our local Bed, Bath, and Beyond clearly was in order.

There we found a Medelco Cordless Glass Electric Kettle on the clearance rack but in new condition for around $35. Lucky us! They are usually priced in the mid-$50 range. We also spotted the Breville BOV800XL Smart Oven 1800-Watt Convection Toaster Oven for $250.

I won’t go on about how great both of these appliances are. You can read the reviews yourself. I was unprepared, however, for how taking a perceived technological step backward exposed me to how technologically-advanced conventional cooking has become.

This kettle, for example, boils water at just about the same speed as the 1000-watt GE microwave oven we use. And, I was amazed by how much better my tea and coffee tasted using non-nuked water!

The convection oven also was a revelation. It heated very quickly and cooked evenly, making reheated food, including everything from french fries to fried chicken to pizza to rare strip steaks, as delicious (if not better) than it was when served the first time. Try that in your radiation box, Skeptic!

For melting butter, we use a small sauce pan; for chocolate, a water-filled saucepan with a bowl on top (melt the chocolate in the bowl). Last-night’s creamed spinach, beans with chorizo, or cold coffee? Simply repeat the heating method and equipment used to make it in the first place.

In fact, everything we made conventionally was exponentially more flavorful as we could have made in the microwave oven and very nearly as quick. The only remaining concern you might have is how easy it is to go from refrigerator to table in a single plastic dish. But did you know nuking plastic can release harmful chemicals into your food? According to an article in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel, cited by Yahoo! Green:
“plastics labeled microwave-safe and advertised for infants, even those were found to release ‘toxic doses’ of Bisphenol A when heated in a microwave. ‘The amounts detected were at levels that scientists have found cause neurological and developmental damage in laboratory animals,’ the paper reports. In fact, the term ‘microwave safe’ is not regulated by the government, so it has no verifiable meaning. According to the Journal Sentinel’s testing, BPA ‘is present in frozen food trays, microwaveable soup containers, and plastic baby food packaging.’ It is often found in plastics marked No. 7, but may also be present in some plastics labeled with Nos. 1, 2, and 5 as well, according to the report.” The article recommended using glass or ceramic cookware for microwaving, instead.

With that in mind, maybe fridge-to-table convenience isn’t really all that convenient. Especially, when you consider the health risks.

So, what did I learn from our no-nukes experiment? I really don’t miss my microwave at all. The things I used to rely on it to do were easily replaced conventionally and cooking and heating take very little or no extra time. And the improvement in the food makes a little extra clean-up well worth it and eating leftovers—something I was heretofore reluctant to do—a close second to the meal the first time around.

Chez Lulu Rocks!

Every so often, I’ve got to get my French bistro on.  In Birmingham, that means Chez Lulu. That it is one of my two top favorite brunches in the city is just an added bonus on a Sunday like today.

Food fans from Birmingham can just skip the rest of this review. You already know the wonder of this restaurant with its funky décor perhaps gleaned from estate sales and vintage shops; perhaps from a really expensive decorator.  Who cares?  The food rocks.

The magic began as it often does with service of the complementary rustic sourdough plate made at the Continental Bakery next door  and of the same ownership.  The bread  is normally accompanied by a saucer of olive oil, which I find slightly odd, as my favorite flavor of the classic trio is the mildly sweet raisin-nut sourdough.  But I just ask the waiter for butter, which they are happy to provide.

A little café au lait gets the party started for real, and today, I had the tarte combo with a tarragon chicken salad on the side.  I was not disappointed by the plentiful wild mushrooms in a perfectly flaky, delicious, non-soggy crust.  And if you’ve never had it, the tarragon chicken salad is a revelation of flavor featuring large white chunks and perfect amount of fresh herbs.  It also comes in a large size if you want salad as a meal.

I finished with one of the crepes du jour–a fresh strawberry number filled with creamy goat cheese and topped with local honey.  Altogether, the crepe was the perfect size for a final course but you can add more of them and make it your main if you are into that kind of thing.  The strawberries looked and tasted like they should; red throughout, juicy, and not too acidic. And, happily, there were just enough of them on top to have a bit of it with each bite.  I’m kind of obsessive like that. 

If you decide to get your bistro on and you’ve never been to Chez Lulu before just be forewarned:  when I say bistro, I ain’t kiddin’ around.  The tables are uncomfortably small and even though the portions are not overlarge, you will likely end up with the salt and pepper shakers on the floor if you share a two top with someone else.  But if you like getting to know your neighbor, this may be the spot for you.  You may just want to consider the real estate you are given when choosing what to order.

Additionally,  you may end up waiting a bit for a table during peak times, but it won’t usually take long.  Whatever you do, however, don’t give into the temptation to ask to eat at the bar instead of waiting.  I did that once and found the four-inch counter overhang insufficient coverage for drips and stuff.  Moreover, people had a hard time walking behind me as they passed from the front door to all but two of the tables.  That bar is pretty much just for drinkin’.

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Kool Korner Sandwiches–Your Cuban Destination

Looking for an authentic (and really awesome) Cuban sandwich?  I was after I saw the Cuban Sandwich episode of “Throw-Down with Bobby Flay.”  To be perfectly frank, I thought the odds of finding even a passable one in Birmingham, Alabama, to be somewhere between slim and none.  Boy, was I wrong!

As luck, kismet, or karma would have it, one of the best Cubans in the South just happens to be made right here for lunch and dinner, six days a week. 

Kool Korner was founded in 1985, in Atlanta, Georgia, by Ildefonso and Lucia Ramirez, who both emigrated to the U.S. from Cuba in 1972.  The shop was a grocery store that was slowly converted to a sandwich shop and both Ildefonso and Lucia worked and lived in the old building.  It’s proximity to Georgia Tech in Midtown and reasonable prices for hearty fare made it a classic hangout for students and locals alike.

Nonetheless, in 2009, the Ramirez’s picked-up Kool Korner and moved it to the Publix strip mall on Montgomery Highway in Vestavia Hills.  That’s right!  It’s not a chain, but the orginal shop with newer digs and the same great sandwiches.

And if you are not into pork–shame on you–but there are roast beef, salads, Cuban tamales, black bean soup, and many other options to choose from.  For dessert, try a delicious Guava and Cream Cheese Pastelito, which is like a giant puff pastry filled with thick, sweet guava jam and cream cheese, strangely reminiscent of King Cakes.

Check out the entire menu and get information on hours and location at http://www.koolkornersandwiches.com. You won’t regret it!

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Prepara Cookbook Stand

If you are dealing with a particularly thick cookbook, like the “Joy of Cooking” you may find the girth of the volume makes it difficult to lay flat on the counter when using as a reference. If so, you will definitedly want to buy a sturdy, adjustable cookbook stand like the Prepara Chef’s Center Cookbook Holder. I own this stand myself and love it! It is lightweight, swivels, and has an acrylic cover that enables you to see every bit of page real estate without obstruction, protects your book from splatters, and is easy to clean when the cooking carnage is complete.

Bitchin’ Kitchen

Cooking channel has a hilarious new show called “Bitchin’ Kitchen.”  Nadia G.’s over-the-top wardrobe and matching personality, the ever-changing set, and subtle hints of her dark side certainly make this series more about entertainment than actual cooking tips.  On the other hand, you might be surprised what you pick-up along the way.  Don’t say I didn’t warn you! 😉